Small Islands in the Off-season
Every spring I revisit the same questions about ferries. The train was late, which turned out to be the best part of the day. The ferry crossing took four hours and felt like ten minutes.
Before and after
There is a version of this that is much more complicated. This is not that version. Nothing here requires a rail pass, though it does make things easier. Off-season towns are quieter, cheaper and far more candid. Half of the work is deciding what to leave out.
Closing thoughts
Nothing here requires a phrasebook, though it does make things easier. The change showed up slowly, then all at once. Most problems with old maps turn out to be problems with time.
Most problems with mountain villages turn out to be problems with time. I changed my mind about little islands twice while writing this. The best advice I got was simply to slow down. If something here is unclear, that is on me, not you. I packed too much, as usual, and wore the same jacket every day.
The trick, if there is one, is to leave plenty of room for errors.